Replacement pads and rotors

[Lucafu1]

OEM or Motorcraft Heavy Duty if available.

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[fordtruckman2003]

Always read online power stop was cheap trash but now reading positive reviews here.

This is a good thread to have going. I'm probably going to be due for brake work soon on my truck too.

 

[OIF_Veteran04]

Higher performance pads typically won't last as long as stock but that varies based on pad chemistry, though rotors are typically the first to go in my experience (stock, warping or glazing one). The z36 line has better performance. It's not a huge difference, but it's an upgrade. Cross drilled rotors have less mass and heat up faster, at the same time they cool down faster as well (marginally). A lot of people who review them provide anecdotal evidence as they're often in need of new brakes. Of course new brakes perform better than old glazed over rotors. Pad bedding is one of the most important things to do with new brakes. They come with instructions and can be found online.

I've done at least a dozen z36 installs for friends and family over the last 10 years. It was a clear upgrade in towing on a F250 and a 1/2 ton ram that towed regularly per the owners. The drilled holes of the z36 kit have little benefit outside of aesthetics, the slots do the work. The rotors are directional, a unique part number for each location on the vehicle. The pads are where the performance comes from. With electrically driven masters, daily driving may not notice much of a difference, but that shouldn't be confused for the additional margin not being there. This is particularly true with the powerboost where the computer is blending 40kW of regen and friction braking together to attempt to achieve the stopping force you're requesting at the pedal (i'd really like a 1 pedal option to maximize regen roll).

If you're going to do brakes, 100% replace the 'hoses' with stainless braid. Between a quality set of pads and stainless lines you will feel the difference in heavier braking (down-hill as well). It's also a good habit that every time you remove the caliper for brake work, clean and sufficiently-lube the slide pins (coat then slide them in alone to make sure) . Don't rely on the janky little packets an auto parts stores nickel and dime you over, synthetic high-temp (I have a small flat detail paint brush that's cut down to 1/4" bristle length that stays w/ my grease). Don't bother with the backs of pads as shown in the vid, put trace amounts directly on the caliper itself where it contacts the back of the pads, particularly the pistons. Doing that little extra bit of detail will save you from 95% of future brake related issues often requiring a caliper replacement along with another set of rotors and pads. I had a neighbor that brought his 4 runner over with a brake issue seeking advice as it just had a full set of pads and rotors done not even 7 months prior at a shop in-town. A slide pin was seized, cocked the caliper, ate through the edge of the pad, through most of the back metal, cocked one of the pistons damaging it while also grooving the rotor beyond salvage. Cost him a caliper, a rotor, and another set of pads in less than year because a shop saved 5 minutes and 20 cents of grease.

Don't forget to bed the pads, and bed the pads, do the process 2 or 3 times to be sure. Oh, be sure to bed the pads.

Who make a set of braided stainless steel lines for the 21-23?

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