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Lc5i pro install on B&O 8 speaker, still using oem subwoofer- Help

deanbychkowsky

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After reading every thread I can find on upgrading the B&O 8 speaker system in my 2024 f150 I’m more confused than ever.

What I would like to do is add an Lc5i pro, replace the door speakers with coax Rockfords and power them off a 5 channel amplifier.

The questions I have are:

can I leave the center channel powered off of the B&O amp and the tweeters powered off the head unit if I do this?

do I need to make any forscan changes to run 2 way coax’s in the doors?

can I run the oem subwoofer off the new 5 channel amplifier until I decide what route I’m going for a subwoofer/enclosure? Obviously I’d have to turn the gain/bass boost on the amp down for the sub as it would be a 350w rms channel on the amp I’m looking at.

if this all worked I might not even tie up any space with another subwoofer as adding more power to better door speakers as well as block off plates might be enough to make me happy with the system. I was looking to run Rockford t1650 an t1692’s for door speakers and a Pioneer gm-dx975 amp (75w rms x 4 and 350w rms x 1)

My problem with the system is the bass rolloff and garbage speakers that distort at high volume, a lot of my listening is between 25-max volume and it sounds like trash.

I also considered running lower powered more efficient Rockford prime speakers in the doors off of the factory B&O amp and just using and l2ci pro and a mono amp/single under seat 12in subwoofer, but I’m not sure what the better direction would be.
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deanbychkowsky

deanbychkowsky

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Well I went ahead and ordered the Rockford power series 6x9’s, 6.5’s, adapters and door block off plates, I’m going to install them when they show up and then decide if I need to power them with an external amp or not. If they have good clarity up to full volume I’ll likely just add an LC2I pro, a Rockford R2-500x1 amp and a 12in shallow Rockford subwoofer under the rear seat. If they don’t clear up the distortion at higher volumes I’ll have to look into a 5 channel amplifier and an L5ci I guess. Still lots of mixed reviews on using an Lc5i vs a PAC amp pro and totally eliminating the B&O amplifier, but I really don’t want to pay the extra cost for that to lose my center channel and have to run wire to power my A pillar tweeters.
 
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deanbychkowsky

deanbychkowsky

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First Name
dean
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Ford F-150 Lc5i pro install on B&O 8 speaker, still using oem subwoofer- Help IMG_6507
Ford F-150 Lc5i pro install on B&O 8 speaker, still using oem subwoofer- Help IMG_6327
Ford F-150 Lc5i pro install on B&O 8 speaker, still using oem subwoofer- Help IMG_6328
Ford F-150 Lc5i pro install on B&O 8 speaker, still using oem subwoofer- Help IMG_6326
Ford F-150 Lc5i pro install on B&O 8 speaker, still using oem subwoofer- Help IMG_6329
Well I finally have some updates, I installed the Rockford power series speakers and door block off plates, the B/O amplifier definitely did not have the power to push them and the signal was still distorted on the rear channels so I ordered a Rockford 500 watt amp to run the 4 door speakers. I ran the amplifier using the 4 speaker outs for the doors as high level inputs, but when amplified they sounded like hot garbage due to the factory dsp eq settings being setup for non coax speakers…. In a last attempt to not do a complete B/O delete and spend the big bucks I order an equalizer and installed that. I used the rear channels for the high level inputs into the eq and then rca’s from the eq out to the amplifier. It made a world of difference for sound quality and clarity. I also installed load generators on the high level speaker signals out of the B/o amp to keep it happy. In the end I never even added a subwoofer as putting good power to the doors and having the block off plates installed the sound is very full and the factory sub adds just enough lows to keep me happy. The only thing I would have done differently is buy components for the front instead of coax’s because the much higher volume in the system totally walks over the factory pillar tweeters now. But this goes to show you can have a decent sounding system without a bypass module and eliminating the factory sub. It might not be top tier quality but it sounds pretty good and at a far lower price than option B.
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