How to speed up Car Washing?

[Evolvd]

1. Are there any surfaces or materials (elastomers, rubber, plastic, chrome, PVD Wheels, etc.) that you shouldn't put a Ceramic Spray Coating on?
2. Any solutions for keeping the bugs out of the water while you are trying to dry?
3. I also get a lot of bugs on the front camera, hood, grill, and windshield while driving. Any solutions to improve that or make it easier to get them off?

I found these videos in case anyone is interested:
The high pH car wash soap concerns me a bit for the top 2 results.

I’ve Never Seen A Snow Foam Car Wash This Good!


I've Never Seen A Ceramic Coating This Good! Not Even Close!


I've Never Seen A Plastic Car Trim Restorer This Good! Wow!

1. No. Unless it’s a specific acidic or alkaline formulation for a specific task (water spot remover, iron remover etc) then it should be safe for all surfaces.

2. Can’t say I’ve ever heard of this issue before.

3. Use a dedicated bug remover like CarPro Bug Out. Spray it on the carcasses or gut spots and let it dwell a minute or two. Then you can foam over it, or hand wash it. If it’s a stubborn stain don’t go overboard scrubbing it as you’ll likely mar the paint around it. If chemicals won’t remove it then it’s time for polishing.

As for your videos, PH balance is not what determines a chemicals harshness. It can be an indicator but not the full story. For instance, Car Pro Iron X is a sledgehammer iron remover. If you let it dry on the surface it can cause issues….and it’s PH neutral.

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[Tall Tail]

Grit guards
Detail guardz dirtlock base and the dirtlock scrubwall

Pressure washer
how much do you want to spend?
I went and spent ~$1500 for a professional detailing electric pressure washer, hose, stubby gun, angled extension lance, and nozzles. I would recommend it but most people won't spend that much for a home setup. Ryobi makes a electric pressure washer for detailing cars and its pretty cheap less than $150 and it will get the job done.

Foam cannon
mjjc pro v2 or v3

Nozzles, hose 50', gun, extension.
I have all mtm hydro aqualine. I Would recommend a uberflex hose over the mtm one due to weight and flexibility.

Soap any ph neutral soap should do. I use americana global products but p&s, quiver brand, koch chemie, and many more are good too. The quivr brand is imjoshv's brand and so far all his products i have had no bad things to say. I really like how easy the hot coat ceramic detailer is to use even if in my test it didn't last that long. It was tested on a jeep without any real paint prep owned by a 16 year old that likes to two track in the mud and not wash the vehicle for a couple months.

I also have a spot free rinse system (deiinizing tank) it's a must have for dark vehicles light vehicles you dont need it.

Autofiber Mitt on a stick pro is a must have for getting the roofs of vehicles clean.

Microfiber drying/deatiling cloths
I use the highest gsm twist loop towels I can get. 1300 gsm and 26x30, I think, are the size and weight of mine. I wouldn't use anything less than 350 gsm with no tags and and edge type the won't scratch the vehicle.
Autofiber makes some good really big drying towels and their other microfibers are good too.

As for websites
Clean-garage.com
Autofiber.com
Thehouseofrags.com
Dtlrsupply.com
Americannaglobal.com
psdetailproducts.com
kcxusa.com
Mtmhydroparts.com
To name a few.

Thanks. The description of this video has a pretty good list of products IMJOSHV uses. looks like some may be a little dated and some links are broken but overall inline with what you and others have mentioned.

youtube.com/watch?v=wYsQ6BvWL7Q&list=WL&index=1&pp=gAQBiAQB

 

[Chris GTO TT]

Try this ...



I'll see myself out

 

[Evolvd]

Try this ...



I'll see myself out

Now that’s what I call an “express” car wash

 

[Tall Tail]

I timed myself using the procedure in my original post.

• Prep/Setup: about 30 minutes
• Thorough Rinse including underbody: 40 minutes
• Wash: 75 minutes prioritizing speed rather than thoroughness as i didn't plan to ceramic coat after this wash.
• Quick Dry: 15 minutes using the 1500 towel from the rag company (not chamois from OP). This sped things up and generally liked it, but had a few challenges described below. Generally, I did a less thorough dry than typical due to the challenges. https://theragcompany.com/collections/drying-towels/products/the-1500
• Clean up and put everything away: 30 minutes

Total time was 3 hrs and 10 minutes prioritizing speed. It could have easily taken 2 hours more if i was doing a thorough clean (get all the bugs off, etc.) and a 2x ceramic coat.

1. Where do you see the most room for improvement? I think a pressure wash and a foam cannon may speed up the rinse and wash times.
2. How do you ring out these high density (1500 gsm) drying towels? This large (30"x30") drying towel gets heavy fast and doesn't like to give up the water the same way a chamois does when twisting. It is also difficult to keep off the ground when drying the lower parts or the truck due to its size. Theoretically, it should only be capable of soaking up about 2 lbs (~1 quart), but i think the weight increased more than that (may have to do a before and after wt.) and it still wouldn't give up the water but left more water behind on the truck and stopped soaking water up.
3. Do you wash your drying towel after every use if not using drying aids?
   1. if not, how do you dry it after use?
   2. If not, after how many truck dries do you wash your drying towel?
4. From full operating temp (~200 deg F), how long do you let your truck cool down before washing (lets say the outside air and water temp is ~70 deg F)? I typically let it go about 1 hour. What is a safe washing temperature?

 

[Evolvd]

I timed myself using the procedure in my original post.

• Prep/Setup: about 30 minutes
• Thorough Rinse including underbody: 40 minutes
• Wash: 75 minutes prioritizing speed rather than thoroughness as i didn't plan to ceramic coat after this wash.
• Quick Dry: 15 minutes using the 1500 towel from the rag company (not chamois from OP). This sped things up and generally liked it, but had a few challenges described below. Generally, I did a less thorough dry than typical due to the challenges. https://theragcompany.com/collections/drying-towels/products/the-1500
• Clean up and put everything away: 30 minutes

Total time was 3 hrs and 10 minutes prioritizing speed. It could have easily taken 2 hours more if i was doing a thorough clean (get all the bugs off, etc.) and a 2x ceramic coat.

1. Where do you see the most room for improvement? I think a pressure wash and a foam cannon may speed up the rinse and wash times.
2. How do you ring out these high density (1500 gsm) drying towels? This large (30"x30") drying towel gets heavy fast and doesn't like to give up the water the same way a chamois does when twisting. It is also difficult to keep off the ground when drying the lower parts or the truck due to its size. Theoretically, it should only be capable of soaking up about 2 lbs (~1 quart), but i think the weight increased more than that (may have to do a before and after wt.) and it still wouldn't give up the water but left more water behind on the truck and stopped soaking water up.
3. Do you wash your drying towel after every use if not using drying aids?
   1. if not, how do you dry it after use?
   2. If not, after how many truck dries do you wash your drying towel?
4. From full operating temp (~200 deg F), how long do you let your truck cool down before washing (lets say the outside air and water temp is ~70 deg F)? I typically let it go about 1 hour. What is a safe washing temperature?

1. A PW would significantly speed up your process, and a ceramic coating would speed it up even more. 40 min just to rinse it down before you wash? That’s a lot of wasted water (and money) for something you could do in a couple minutes with a high flow pressure washer.

2. I don’t wring my towels at all. I use it till it’s saturated and then get another one. If the 30x30 is too large then get a couple smaller ones and swap them out as they get soaked. I generally have 4-6 towels for every wash if I’m not using a blower to dry my car. A large, high-GSM for the body panels, a smaller 16x16 drying towel for the wheels, another for door jams and drips, and another 2-3 for glass.

3. Absolutely. A never reuse a towel unless it’s a dirty job towel. I wash all of them after each use. If I don’t wash them right away I hang the soaked ones over my tool cabinet doors to air out.

4. There’s no cool down time required. You drive your car at full temp through an automatic car wash so I see no difference here. Only time I’d wait is if the car is in direct sunlight. You should make all attempts to avoid washing or detailing cars in direct sunlight. If you can’t avoid it, work in small sections to prevent your wash products from drying out or you’ll end up working much harder to clean the vehicle.

 

[Tall Tail]

1. A PW would significantly speed up your process, and a ceramic coating would speed it up even more. 40 min just to rinse it down before you wash? That’s a lot of wasted water (and money) for something you could do in a couple minutes with a high flow pressure washer.

2. I don’t wring my towels at all. I use it till it’s saturated and then get another one. If the 30x30 is too large then get a couple smaller ones and swap them out as they get soaked. I generally have 4-6 towels for every wash if I’m not using a blower to dry my car. A large, high-GSM for the body panels, a smaller 16x16 drying towel for the wheels, another for door jams and drips, and another 2-3 for glass.

3. Absolutely. A never reuse a towel unless it’s a dirty job towel. I wash all of them after each use. If I don’t wash them right away I hang the soaked ones over my tool cabinet doors to air out.

4. There’s no cool down time required. You drive your car at full temp through an automatic car wash so I see no difference here. Only time I’d wait is if the car is in direct sunlight. You should make all attempts to avoid washing or detailing cars in direct sunlight. If you can’t avoid it, work in small sections to prevent your wash products from drying out or you’ll end up working much harder to clean the vehicle.

Thanks for the reply.

1. Do you consider either of the below products a "ceramic coating" that you reference? if so, i do that about every 3-6 months. Agree on the PW. Its a need, not a want. I have an old gas one, but it needs repair; looking at the new Ryobi. As noted, it's not easy to find.

Turtle Wax 53409 Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYPS3P...XFGR3VGQX&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

Griot's Garage Ceramic 3-in-1 Wax,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084F4DC9...XFGR3VGQX&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

2. I will work on building up my towel supply

 

[Evolvd]

Thanks for the reply.

1. Do you consider either of the below products a "ceramic coating" that you reference? if so, i do that about every 3-6 months. Agree on the PW. Its a need, not a want. I have an old gas one, but it needs repair; looking at the new Ryobi. As noted, it's not easy to find.

Turtle Wax 53409 Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYPS3P...XFGR3VGQX&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

Griot's Garage Ceramic 3-in-1 Wax,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084F4DC9...XFGR3VGQX&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

2. I will work on building up my towel supply

Those are decent products but are not true ceramic coatings as they do not form a bond with the clear coat. Those two will give a few weeks to a month or so of protection but will eventually wear off. They’re good for a quick gloss and water repellency but many companies throw the word “ceramic” on the label but have such a low SiO2 content that it’s barely above false advertising.

If you want something that will last 6 months to a year and is easy to apply I’d go with Gyeon Can Coat Evo or Armor Detail Supply Phobic. Both are spray applications (spray on MF towel, wipe on, let dwell for short time before level, and then buff off).

The Ryobi automotive PW is a very popular unit and has great reviews for its price range. The sell out fast due to all the great things being said about it. I would suggest never using a gas powered PW on a car unless it has a way to regulate the PSI down to 1000 give or take 100 PSI.

 

[Tall Tail]

Those are decent products but are not true ceramic coatings as they do not form a bond with the clear coat. Those two will give a few weeks to a month or so of protection but will eventually wear off. They’re good for a quick gloss and water repellency but many companies throw the word “ceramic” on the label but have such a low SiO2 content that it’s barely above false advertising.

If you want something that will last 6 months to a year and is easy to apply I’d go with Gyeon Can Coat Evo or Armor Detail Supply Phobic. Both are spray applications (spray on MF towel, wipe on, let dwell for short time before level, and then buff off).

The Ryobi automotive PW is a very popular unit and has great reviews for its price range. The sell out fast due to all the great things being said about it. I would suggest never using a gas powered PW on a car unless it has a way to regulate the PSI down to 1000 give or take 100 PSI.

ok, so these?

GYEON CanCoat EVO Spray Ceramic Coating
https://www.amazon.com/protection-m...411&sprefix=gyeon+can+coat+evo,aps,250&sr=8-3


Armour Detail Supply - Phobic Spray Coating
https://www.amazon.com/Armour-Detail-Supply-User-Friendly-Durability/dp/B0DK41VPVV

 

[Dover]

Wow, I personally am happy running my truck thru the touchless weekly and once a year having my truck detailed. To each his own, but I have many other ways to spend my time. My truck is a tool. I commute, and haul my camper and dirt bikes, it’s always dirty to some degree.

 

[Evolvd]

ok, so these?

GYEON CanCoat EVO Spray Ceramic Coating
https://www.amazon.com/protection-multi-surface-application-interior-exterior/dp/B0B3GLK4FQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=222ZUIB6QUF31&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0CZFRR7P-ufUK7aAIZOJzUfk8u4SRlxHMsMIMHqb2byiQpdUZjF09ZuUQ_X8O4vywcGsfcZ5pU74Q5L3HLho8IAcae4L8Dvd3pMcOWrRs23MhNGxptDhWTuO8uFGKA_tUJtK7tkNsik0z1Pay4TMl8WRdkf9qhVZTb9eAv48qPFr9mmxe95ejvyFx8fHMjk8i5LB7aTpA_VPhCGXRFhmzsatH9sjzkK0h0QFuFe2oLHOlqU_THIStyPiqU5NQNi5pyyUkbSy2Rw5Eol7jsDpueUra4a7JqdwfskC6FWARL8.ceGR3drA4O3_g7fynUJezqY_ML-FoNpbx_1JYk9ph74&dib_tag=se&keywords=Gyeon+Can+Coat+Evo&qid=1761768411&sprefix=gyeon+can+coat+evo,aps,250&sr=8-3


Armour Detail Supply - Phobic Spray Coating
https://www.amazon.com/Armour-Detail-Supply-User-Friendly-Durability/dp/B0DK41VPVV

Yep. And there’s plenty of YouTube videos from both companies describing how to apply them. Each one will give you a year or so of protection and you can top them off with the same product or a detail spray to boost their hydrophobicity.

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