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Front of trailer 1 inch higher than rear.

educ8tedguess

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Good afternoon all,
As the title says, my trailer is a little higher in front than in the rear with a difference of an inch between front and rear. I tend to overthink things and go down several "rabbit holes" only to learn that there is a simple solution that I'm not seeing. So, based on the information below, do any of you have recommendations?

TL : DR:
Should I drive with the the trailer nose a little higher and stop worrying so much or cut the excess length (about 2 inches) from the bottom of the new shank so I can have the trailer be level or a little lower in the front? Or, is there better way?

I'll start with the details that may be helpful.
Truck: 2023 F150 XLT, CCSB, 3.5 EB, 3:55 gears. GVWR 7050. Payload is 1880 (Per sticker inside door) Payload after accessories and me is 1550. (truck weighed at 5500 lbs) The truck sits about 3 inches higher in the rear than in the front.
Trailer: SureTrac Steel Deck car hauler. (7 x 16+4) Advertised coupler height is 18 inches. Actual height is 17 3/4 unloaded Advertised weight is 2300 lbs
Weight Distribution System: Equalizer 4 pt with 1000lb tongue weight/10,000 lb trailer weight bars. Shank is 7 inch rise/3 inch drop.

Tongue weight is and will be at around 11%. (using a TW scale)
Trailer Weight with Jeep and luggage: 7100 (at most)

Full setup taken to scales and I have the weight distributed appropriately.


My family and I drive from Illinois to North Carolina for our family vacation and take my wife's Jeep with us. (about 1,000 miles each way) In previous years, I had a 2012 F250 which didn't require a WD system; I just adjusted for appropriate tongue weight, set the ball at the appropriate height and off we went.

When I hooked the WD system up to the F150 and trailer, I couldn't get the ball low enough for the low coupler height of the car hauler. (equalizer directions state the ball should be 0-1 inches higher than coupler) So, I ordered a new shank with a 9 inch drop and 13 inch rise. With this, I was able to get the ball low enough but now, the bottom of the new shank was about 3.5 inches from the ground. This WILL scrape and it will scrape often. From there, I put the original shank back on and hooked up to the loaded trailer. After getting the proper weight distribution etc.... the final result is that the trailer is sitting 1 inch higher in the front than it is in the rear. The directions say that the difference between front and rear should be within 1 inch but I've always been taught not to tow "nose high"

Options I have considered:
Drive it with the nose a little higher and stop worrying
Cut the excess length from the bottom of the shank (about 2 inches) which will give me about 5.5 inches of clearance and will allow the nose to be level or a little lower than level?
Or, am I missing something simple? (Besides leaving the jeep at home)

Thanks for reading and for any recommendations.
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Ricksc

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I had the same issue. I loaded my truck with everything I always take, filled all my propane tanks. Then set up trailer it worked out level. I don’t see any reason cutting the bottom off would hurt anything.
 

Buyer2021

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FWIW, my thoughts
  • 1" nose-high over that trailer length is nothing to get worried about with that trailer's leaf-spring suspension (not the case with torsion-axle suspensions which are much less tolerant of off-level towing)
  • IF it doesn't have an 'equalizer-toggle' between the front and rear springs, adding that would make it even more tolerant of off-level towing (equalize loads on tires)
  • Personally, I'd like a bit more than 11% of total loaded trailer weight on the tongue for better inherent anti-sway characteristics
  • If anything, I'd try to adjust the position of the vehicle and other stuff on the trailer to both increase TW and have the side-effect of bringing it a bit lower in front
Just for your consideration, happy trailering!
 
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educ8tedguess

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The 9/13 was the only option?
No, they had a 6 inch drop and 10 inch rise as well and I'm kicking myself for not getting that one as I had it in the "shopping cart." I used the "shank selection tool" and it recommended the 9/13. Live and learn...
 

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educ8tedguess

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FWIW, my thoughts
  • 1" nose-high over that trailer length is nothing to get worried about with that trailer's leaf-spring suspension (not the case with torsion-axle suspensions which are much less tolerant of off-level towing)
  • IF it doesn't have an 'equalizer-toggle' between the front and rear springs, adding that would make it even more tolerant of off-level towing (equalize loads on tires)
  • Personally, I'd like a bit more than 11% of total loaded trailer weight on the tongue for better inherent anti-sway characteristics
  • If anything, I'd try to adjust the position of the vehicle and other stuff on the trailer to both increase TW and have the side-effect of bringing it a bit lower in front
Just for your consideration, happy trailering!
Thanks for your response; it's much appreciated.
It does have the "equalizer-Toggle" so that's good to know.
And I agree on the tongue weight. With my F250, I'd get it as close to 14 or 15% as possible. Once everything is loaded up, I can move the jeep forward on the trailer to add additional weight. Thanks again for your reply.
 

Buyer2021

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With my F250, I'd get it as close to 14 or 15% as possible. Once everything is loaded up, I can move the jeep forward on the trailer to add additional weight.
Given that info, personally, I'd go for that same TW% target with your F150 and then tweak your WDH to 'recover / correct' any undesirable excess sag, again not worrying about 1" +/- on the tongue height.

Methinks that would yield a more 'inherently stable tow' in all the variety of sway-inducing conditions you may encounter over the long haul.
 
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educ8tedguess

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Given that info, personally, I'd go for that same TW% target with your F150 and then tweak your WDH to 'recover / correct' any undesirable excess sag, again not worrying about 1" +/- on the tongue height.

Methinks that would yield a more 'inherently stable tow' in all the variety of sway-inducing conditions you may encounter over the long haul.
That sounds like a good strategy; I’ll give it a try and see how it works. Even at 15%, I will still be within my payload numbers and that’s before distributing some back to the trailer. There are plenty of CAT scales along the way so I can double check if something feels off. Thanks again for the recommendations.
 

Buyer2021

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Even at 15%, I will still be within my payload numbers and that’s before distributing some back to the trailer
Oh yeah, I failed to mention that IMO the TW 'dead weight' (WDH not engaged) should be within payload number.

Bad oversight on my part, good catch on your part.
 
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educ8tedguess

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Follow-up: I moved the jeep forward to get a little more tongue weight but kept it all within the payload/axle limitations. It ended up being about 1/2 inch high in the front. Made the 1100 mile drive without issue. I was pleasantly surprised as to how stable it felt; even with stock suspension and tires. Thanks @Buyer2021 for your recommendations.
Overall trip MPG (per dash) was 12.7. Hand calculated average was 12.0 mpg.

Ford F-150 Front of trailer 1 inch higher than rear. IMG_2896
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