LakeRun21
Active member
- Thread starter
- #1
To consolidate/add to what’s in @M4X thread (link) and scattered across the forums.
I just got done taking my active air dam and actuators off, laying under the truck...took about 45 minutes. This write-up is for 2021 Lariat.
Tools you'll need:
- 1/2 socket (to remove the bolts holding the actuators to the frame)
- 7mm socket (for the screws holding the air dam to the actuators)
- Panel/Trim Remover Tool (aka Clip Removal Tool; this will come in handy down below)
-Needle Nose Pliers (to remove electrical clip connections...unless you have tiny hands)
Electrical Dead Heads:
I purchased all of these off Mouser, mentioned in another thread (link) for like $15 total. Shoutout to @TylerNinetyTwo for the info, he links everything in his post.
-Part # 1-2141520-1 Qty.1 (driver's side plug)
-Part # 1-1564559-1 Qty.1 (passenger side plug)
-Part #967056-1 Qty.9 (these plug the holes in the above clips)
Steps for Removal:
Step 1: remove air dam screws from actuator housing. The little hex screws in the below pic.
Step 2: Remove bolts holding actuator to frame utilizing a 1/2 socket. The two circled in orange are easiest; however, the 3rd one is up out of view (indicated by red arrow). You can use a shallow or flex socket to get it.
Step 3: Starting on the driver's side, you're going to need to disconnect the electrical clip from the actuator. Using the trim removal tool, I popped the closest wire harness clamp off the frame, to allow for better access to this clip...after trying to blindly remove it for 10 minutes. Mine (and others) don't have the red safety lock on this driver's side clip. If you do, see step 4. For this clip, you just use the needle nose pliers to pinch and pull this connector out. I then capped it with a dead head (part #1-2141520-1)
Step 4: Passenger side electrical connector was b*tch, but this thread helped me. Using the trim removal tool to slide the red "clip lock" out. It won't come all the way off, just slides out a bit. Then use needle nose pliers to pinch the black part closest to the wires and pull, like the prior clip. Cap with dead head (part # 1-1564559-1)
After that, you can zip tie these off and you're done. For the 100 people asking "does this throw a code", below is a screenshot reply I got from the product dev team at Ford Performance:
Update: I successfully removed the "soft" DTC message in Forscan, related to the air dam..."unable to communicate with air dam"...thanks to @Livnitup for the master spreadsheet! Within the PCM you rewrite the following to disable the air dam: 7E0-162-02 XXXX XXXX 01XX. Note that you're only changing the 3rd-from-last value to "1". For example, default may look like 043C at the end and you would change the "4" to a "1". Once completed, I cleared the DTC and the PCM error code was no longer there. Again, this isn't a requirement and something you would never see if you don't utilize Forscan. **Disclaimer: Proceed at your own risk.**
My next step, which was the primary reason for this process, is installing the Ford Performance skid plate. Because of the amount of snow we get up here, I need maximum clearance and protection from snow/ice. It was only a matter of time before my air dam was ripped off. I can add to this post or post a new thread once I get to that next week. However, from high-level view:
I'll be installing this Ford Performance skid plate purchased from Summit Racing (found a promo on another thread for 20% discount "Ricardos")...can't remember who Ricardo is, but thanks my guy. This was the cheapest route (after shipping) that I found, I compared several popular sites. My truck was built in March 2021 but has a Job 2 frame that's standard compatibility. There's several threads on this topic, for Job 1 vs Job 2 frame identification. Job 1 frames have a few workarounds.
**Disclaimer**: I don't own any of these pics, found via google and marked up to help guide you through this.
I just got done taking my active air dam and actuators off, laying under the truck...took about 45 minutes. This write-up is for 2021 Lariat.
Tools you'll need:
- 1/2 socket (to remove the bolts holding the actuators to the frame)
- 7mm socket (for the screws holding the air dam to the actuators)
- Panel/Trim Remover Tool (aka Clip Removal Tool; this will come in handy down below)
-Needle Nose Pliers (to remove electrical clip connections...unless you have tiny hands)
Electrical Dead Heads:
I purchased all of these off Mouser, mentioned in another thread (link) for like $15 total. Shoutout to @TylerNinetyTwo for the info, he links everything in his post.
-Part # 1-2141520-1 Qty.1 (driver's side plug)
-Part # 1-1564559-1 Qty.1 (passenger side plug)
-Part #967056-1 Qty.9 (these plug the holes in the above clips)
Steps for Removal:
Step 1: remove air dam screws from actuator housing. The little hex screws in the below pic.
Step 2: Remove bolts holding actuator to frame utilizing a 1/2 socket. The two circled in orange are easiest; however, the 3rd one is up out of view (indicated by red arrow). You can use a shallow or flex socket to get it.
Step 3: Starting on the driver's side, you're going to need to disconnect the electrical clip from the actuator. Using the trim removal tool, I popped the closest wire harness clamp off the frame, to allow for better access to this clip...after trying to blindly remove it for 10 minutes. Mine (and others) don't have the red safety lock on this driver's side clip. If you do, see step 4. For this clip, you just use the needle nose pliers to pinch and pull this connector out. I then capped it with a dead head (part #1-2141520-1)
Step 4: Passenger side electrical connector was b*tch, but this thread helped me. Using the trim removal tool to slide the red "clip lock" out. It won't come all the way off, just slides out a bit. Then use needle nose pliers to pinch the black part closest to the wires and pull, like the prior clip. Cap with dead head (part # 1-1564559-1)
After that, you can zip tie these off and you're done. For the 100 people asking "does this throw a code", below is a screenshot reply I got from the product dev team at Ford Performance:
Update: I successfully removed the "soft" DTC message in Forscan, related to the air dam..."unable to communicate with air dam"...thanks to @Livnitup for the master spreadsheet! Within the PCM you rewrite the following to disable the air dam: 7E0-162-02 XXXX XXXX 01XX. Note that you're only changing the 3rd-from-last value to "1". For example, default may look like 043C at the end and you would change the "4" to a "1". Once completed, I cleared the DTC and the PCM error code was no longer there. Again, this isn't a requirement and something you would never see if you don't utilize Forscan. **Disclaimer: Proceed at your own risk.**
My next step, which was the primary reason for this process, is installing the Ford Performance skid plate. Because of the amount of snow we get up here, I need maximum clearance and protection from snow/ice. It was only a matter of time before my air dam was ripped off. I can add to this post or post a new thread once I get to that next week. However, from high-level view:
I'll be installing this Ford Performance skid plate purchased from Summit Racing (found a promo on another thread for 20% discount "Ricardos")...can't remember who Ricardo is, but thanks my guy. This was the cheapest route (after shipping) that I found, I compared several popular sites. My truck was built in March 2021 but has a Job 2 frame that's standard compatibility. There's several threads on this topic, for Job 1 vs Job 2 frame identification. Job 1 frames have a few workarounds.
**Disclaimer**: I don't own any of these pics, found via google and marked up to help guide you through this.
Sponsored
Last edited:
