23 F150 Platinum Z flash

[Bakerz_Duzn]

Looking for some guidance. I bought a 23 Platinum with the zflash module connected to the BCM. I made a rookie mistake and disconnected the BCM harness from the Module with the battery connected. (Dumb I know). Once I plugged everything back in I received Park Aid malfunction, Pre-collision assist not available , blind spot detection with Cross traffic faults and the back up camera doesn't work.

I disconnected the batteries for more then 15 minutes, tried clear the message with a BlueDriver, and drove the truck for about 30 minutes. Still has faults present. I don't really wanna take it back to the dealer if I don't have to. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can try to get everything back working?

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[FirstTimeFord]

Looking for some guidance. I bought a 23 Platinum with the zflash module connected to the BCM. I made a rookie mistake and disconnected the BCM harness from the Module with the battery connected. (Dumb I know). Once I plugged everything back in I received Park Aid malfunction, Pre-collision assist not available , blind spot detection with Cross traffic faults and the back up camera doesn't work.

I disconnected the batteries for more then 15 minutes, tried clear the message with a BlueDriver, and drove the truck for about 30 minutes. Still has faults present. I don't really wanna take it back to the dealer if I don't have to. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can try to get everything back working?

I see you're not getting a response, and I was curious myself, so I asked Grok (AI). Maybe this will help.... Take it with a grain of salt. Good Luck! NOTE: All the text below is directly from Grok.


Sounds like the disconnect caused a module communication glitch or DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) to latch in the BCM (Body Control Module) and related systems like the IPMA (Image Processing Module A for pre-collision/blind spot) and PCM (Parking Control Module). Since it's a 2023 F-150 Platinum, these are CAN bus interconnected, and zFlash (likely a tuning/flashing tool) might complicate things if it was mid-process.


You've already tried battery disconnect and basic driving—good start, but that often isn't enough for ADAS (Advanced Driver Assistance Systems) faults. Here's what to try next, step by step, to avoid the dealer:

1. Full Power Cycle with Module Reset: Disconnect both batteries (negative terminals first) for at least 30-45 minutes (longer than 15 to fully drain capacitors). While disconnected, press the brake pedal several times to discharge residual power. Reconnect positives first, then negatives. Start the truck and let it idle for 5-10 minutes without touching anything. Drive in a straight line at 40+ mph for 10-15 minutes to recalibrate sensors (this helps IPMA and blind spot). Check for faults.
2. Deeper Scan for Codes: Your BlueDriver is OBD-II focused but might miss Ford-specific modules. Download the FORScan app (free for Windows/Android) and get a compatible OBD-II adapter (like OBDLink EX, ~$60 if you don't have one—avoid cheap ones). FORScan can read/clear BCM, IPMA, and PCM codes on F-150s. Connect, scan all modules, note any U-codes (communication) or B-codes (body), clear them, then cycle power and rescan. This often resolves post-disconnect glitches.
3. Check Connections and Grounds: Inspect the BCM harness (behind the passenger kick panel) for bent pins, corrosion, or loose plugs—especially where zFlash connects. Clean with electrical contact cleaner. Verify ground points (G204/G205 near BCM) are tight and clean. Also check the camera harness at the tailgate.
4. Sensor/Module-Specific Checks:
   • Backup Camera: Ensure the tailgate camera connector (inside tailgate) is secure; wiggle it while testing reverse.
   • Park Aid/Blind Spot: Clean front/rear ultrasonic sensors and side mirror BLIS modules. If equipped, check radar sensor behind the grille for dirt/blockage.
   • Drive in scenarios that trigger each: reverse for camera/park aid, change lanes for blind spot, highway for pre-collision.

If FORScan shows persistent codes (e.g., U0155 for IPMA comms), you might need a dealer-level tool like IDS (Integrated Diagnostic System) for reconfiguration—zFlash could have flagged the BCM as "modified." Worst case, it's a fried fuse (check #32/41 in under-hood box) or BCM needs reflashing, but that's dealer territory.


Start with FORScan—it's DIY gold for Fords and has fixed similar issues for many owners. If no luck, dealer diagnostic fee is ~$150-200, but mention the disconnect to avoid "warranty void" drama. Let me know what codes you pull!

 

[Bakerz_Duzn]

Thank you for your response. I’ve had the battery disconnected since 8 this morning. I’ll reconnect after work and see what happens. I did order an OBD connector so we’ll see what happens when that comes in and I’ve already loaded Forscan so just waiting for the adapter at this point.

 

[FirstTimeFord]

Thank you for your response. I’ve had the battery disconnected since 8 this morning. I’ll reconnect after work and see what happens. I did order an OBD connector so we’ll see what happens when that comes in and I’ve already loaded Forscan so just waiting for the adapter at this point.

Hope that works for ya! For the price, it's good to have FORScan on hand anyway.

 

[Bakerz_Duzn]

I was beginning to think I posted on the wrong section. I’ll let you know what happens after hook the battery back up.

 

[KSGlock]

What ended up happening here? Did you get this fixed?

Also, what do you think of the Z Flash?

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