I have a quarter mile long rural driveway, so I get in and go in my Coyote. It's done high-idling by the time I coast down to the road.
My other vehicle is a BMW 335D (3.0L twin turbo diesel). It gets treated differently. No hammering on it until up to full operating temperature. Gotta be kind...
The only temperature flex I can add is that I was stationed at MCAS Yuma in 1995 when they set their all-time record of 124F.
I got Schweddy balls that day.
As a CDL-holder, generally, the answer to avoiding idiots on the road is to slow down, rather than do 120 mph. Don't fall into their trap. Avoid them.
You'll never win the rat race. They'll just keep bringing fresh rats off the bench.
Take this from a guy who used to commute 40,000 miles a year in a Golf TDI diesel before I became a remote work-at-home employee.
It's all about how you drive, what tire pressure you run, and what mods you've done. Best mpg will be accomplished with steady state (i.e. max highway) driving at...
Mine fully warmed up at low idle. Sticking an iPhone right on top of the engine for a video is like zooming in on your teenager's zitty face for a portrait. These engines aren't quiet, but this is totally normal:
The 5.0 badge I put on the back of mine is OEM for the Mustang. Granted, it doesn't come from the factory that way, so it's not OEM placement of course.
True that. The "Parts Content Information" sticker on the window of my Dearborn-built F-150 states, "US/Canadian Parts Content: 32%." So at least two-thirds of the parts are foreign.
Rotors can develop surface rust overnight, especially in more humid environments. You're just hearing that layer wear off the first couple of times you hit the brakes after the truck has sat. No biggie.
I'm neither a chemical nor mechanical engineer, so I just pick one that meets the spec in the owners manual. That makes it easy.
I chose Valvoline Extended Protection 5w30, because it meets the spec and is readily available at the nearby Walmart for under $30 a jug. The geeks over at BITOG...