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Cold air intake - Roush / S&B / Other? Better/worse despite minor differences?

JCsTruck

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Supercharged or modified turbocharged engines are a different story altogether and when you increase the pumping ability (volumetric efficiency above 100%) of the engine then yes a stock intake is going to become restrictive.

On an unmodified naturally aspirated engine it has been my experience that many aftermarket intakes don't improve power in a usable RPM range over the stock intake. Often times they hurt low end torque in lieu of some top end horsepower gains. Same thing happens with an exhaust system when you go with larger diameter pipe or two pipes vs one. In years past anyway this is why those manufacturers of these intake systems displayed truncated power graphs because they didn't want the customer to see the low end loss.

I installed a K&N filter on my Tundra while it was on the dynojet dynamometer and it lost a little bit of power. To find out why I flattened out the K&N filter and compared it to a flattened stock Toyota filter and the stock Toyota filter had twice the surface area compared to the K&N filter. The Toyota filter had more pleated area or folds packed into the same square. The net result was even though the K&N filter could flow more air per a square inch, the stock Toyota filter flowed more overall because it had twice the surface area or media (more folded pleates) so it flowed more overall. The stock Toyota filter also arguably did a better job protecting the engine from harmful dirt particles too.

Now the bigger is better mentality always gets people in this business. Intake pipes and exhaust pipes are sized to produce the best air or exhaust gas velocity for a given RPM which is always a compromise between scavenging (or ram air) at low RPM vs high rpm. Because those things are fixed in size you cannot have both, although variable valve timing, and on some engines like my Kia Telluride the manufacturer also employs variable intake runners which mitigates those compromises.

Because an engine is an air pump that has 4 strokes and a power cycle every 90-degrees (8cyl) or 120 degrees (6-cyl) you get intake air speeds, and especially exhaust gas velocity that speeds up and slows down in between every firing cycle. If the pipe gets too big then you get air or exhaust gas that slows down too much at lower RPM and you lose low end torque as a result. In an all out pedal to the floor (WOT) race it doesn't matter as much but in everyday driving you may find yourself needing to dip into that throttle more than before to get your 5000 lb truck moving the same as before and it will make more noise while doing it too.
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Magician

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I agree that it's a waste of money. The goal would be mostly for looks and a little sound. I don't think I'm going to do either after watching some lab tests showing how much particulate matter is allowed through on the after market options and I think my money is better spent on shocks or struts, or a leather upgrade. I had after market air in my ford fusion, and it just made it louder. I had no issues but it was extra work oiling the filter.
There are some good leather take offs on eBay and recovering your existing seats is not all the difficult. Just saying
 

Eighthtry

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One thing Magician failed to mention is that the CAI will add 100 HP and 120 ft.lbs of torque if it has an oiled filter. Dual exhaust will add another 50 hp. Then a dirty MAF takes it all away, making your net lower than a factory clean MAF.

Go to Project Farm on YouTube. He has side by side tests of air filters and oil filters. You will see that as particle size increases wear on the engine increases. The brand of oil/air filters can also make a difference. All are not created equal.

By the way, I admit to thinking I could easily pick up HP etc. because the manufacturers did not know what they are doing. Turns out I swallowed some clever marketing before I got smarter.

I called Hennessy about supercharging my 2014 5.0 F150 XLT. He quoted me a number I started choking on, but waited until I asked what recommendation he had for exhaust. Stock was the standard 3". He told me they flow well enough that I could skip any changes there.

I have my unmodified 2021 F150 Lariat and like it just the way it is.

Full disclosure. I am all hat and no cattle.
 

Shane150

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I’ve used both Roush and AFE, but I haven’t tried S&B yet. If I ever buy another intake, I’d probably choose S&B, though that may never happen, since the OE airbox and filter are perfectly adequate for my needs. The main advantage of S&B, in my opinion, is how easy it is to swap the filter.

If I were to give advice to anyone who daily-drives this truck, it would be this: save your money on these mods and instead invest in more frequent high quality oil and filter changes and a better grade of fuel.
 

Eighthtry

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I’ve used both Roush and AFE, but I haven’t tried S&B yet. If I ever buy another intake, I’d probably choose S&B, though that may never happen, since the OE airbox and filter are perfectly adequate for my needs. The main advantage of S&B, in my opinion, is how easy it is to swap the filter.

If I were to give advice to anyone who daily-drives this truck, it would be this: save your money on these mods and instead invest in more frequent high quality oil and filter changes and a better grade of fuel.
AMEN Brother.
 

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twoboosted

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I told myself I wouldn't buy a new one, I would wait for the right deal to pop up on a used one. Bought a practically new Roush kit for $200. I just want more turbo noises!
 

Eighthtry

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Of course, the real boost is to integrate turbos and forced air. Now we are talking some real power. Some guy out there has done this.
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