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So is driveline vibration inevitable with a 3/5 Ridetech kit? I received mine and have yet to install it. I keep hearing how at highway speed there will be a vibration. I understand pinion angle etc. Is there a tried and true method of install or shimming which solves it? perhaps an aftermarket...

The ECU is managing the temp. Tend to run hotter in newer cars to increase efficiency.

I actually can't believe it's an open dif except the e locker. In 2024 on a truck. It has abs and therfore wheel speed sensors. Why didn't they integrate the locker to activate when slip detected. Such a bummer.

Does ford play engine noises through the speakers like other manufacturers? I assume yes.

For a regular, normal use truck just a normal manufacturer spec oil in synthetic. If you're gonna tune it and boost it I'd run a more premium oil. Will be Amsoil for me most likely.

It used to be that you needed an after market head unit to get higher quality sound and a dedicated channel for a sub. How does one do this now with it all integrated into the touchscreen? I imagine the sub is not getting a clean signal for bass as it would with a dedicated channel.

I just found out Vossen wheels are made in USA. Guess I have no choice now but to buy a set also for my RCSB. Going to look great on your truck!

Can someone explain what you stand to gain by allowing updates? What was missed by not getting them?

Why are you buying a pickup truck if you're concerned about MPG? Likewise if you want to go fast and only use 2 wheels to propel you seems a pickup truck is not your best choice. You can get a sports car even in a coupe that can seat more people than a RCSB, be more comfortable, faster/handle...

I ordered the OEM option for my XL RCSB. Because why not. Hardly any options to choose so I chose most of them all together.

Been doing IT for about 20 years, last 13 years doing Voice over IP for a major Telco/ISP.

to be clear we're all looking at the same thing, what is in question here? The "blueish" part on the hood?

Exhaust is going to rust, period. The other major rusted piece appears to be the bushing sleeve. Not a big deal. I'm sure its not rusted where its press fit into the arm. None of this is a big deal.

Its no. Someone tried and clearly truck did not adjust for it. Also on the window sticker it does not mention flex fuel anymore anywhere, no e85 sticker etc etc.

Where are they manufactured?

I guess I dont understand your question. You want to lower it, not too much, and run weight in the back to level it. But why. Just lower it and remove the rear blocks to get it level. Or run helper bags in the rear for when you need to tow/haul.

Yeah you have to accept its a truck. Not sure why you would be concerned about weight distribution given its function. If you want to go fast you need 4x4 to put the power down. Otherwise there will be lots of other compromises to be made to try and get a RWD pickup truck to hookup. Forget about...

Seems like a silly way to accomplish the drop and gain traction. Hauling 100 extra pounds for no good reason. Go with a 3/5 drop and run helper bags if you want to load up the bed. Thats my plan anyway.

Can you share any more pics from the backend? Also it looks like the front wheels poke some from the photos. Can you confirm? Also patiently waiting for interior shots!

I kind of like the chrome with the STX grille and paint match surround. Different than all the color matched trucks in all black with Vossens.