this1aintinuse
New member
- First Name
- Kenny
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2025
- Threads
- 0
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 3
- Location
- Greater Cleveland, OH
- Vehicles
- 2024 F-150 XLT
- Occupation
- transportation
So, after seeing issues with finding the proper harness, I decided upon a modified factory route. I bought the cheapest harness that I could find that supports bed light.
(ebay donor harness)
I received the harness, cut it apart and separated the bed lights portion out. I separated the main connector and extracted pins #28 (GN-OG) and #31 (WH-BU). The grounds are all ganged together so I cut the grounds that went off to the tail lights and sealed the cut ends with heat shrink. I split loom, vinyl tape and wrapped with cloth tape to make my own harness that piggy backs along the existing harness.
(pins for 28 and 31 location, if you notice the one is white with green trace instead of blue trace bc I botched the extraction and soldered and heat shrinked the next closest wire color I had in the donor harness)
You should be left with two pins, a ground lug and two connectors that go to the bed lighting jumper harnesses. The ground seemed to want to go on the right frame rail, but I soldered in more wire so that it would bolt in with the existing bundle of grounds on the rear of the left frame rail.
(custom harness just for bed lighting)
I separated the main connector on the truck, pulled the plastic filler plugs and inserted the to pins from the new harness I made into locations 28 and 31. I was able to extract and insert these pins with a micro flat blade screwdriver.
I ran the new harness along the existing harness and cable tied them together. Installed bed lighting jumper harnesses and bed light. Hooked up and activated in forscan, now I have factory bed lights with a donor harness that cost me 40 plus tax and ship.
I taped the harness too close to the end of the bare pins and had difficulty installing the pins in the connector, I had to cut back the tape a couple inches and pull the wires out of the split loom to ease inserting into connector. The wires do have room to go back into the loom once the connector shell is snapped back together.
I now plan on installing factory upfitter switches using my own harness made with connectors found from digikey and mouser.
(ebay donor harness)
I received the harness, cut it apart and separated the bed lights portion out. I separated the main connector and extracted pins #28 (GN-OG) and #31 (WH-BU). The grounds are all ganged together so I cut the grounds that went off to the tail lights and sealed the cut ends with heat shrink. I split loom, vinyl tape and wrapped with cloth tape to make my own harness that piggy backs along the existing harness.
(pins for 28 and 31 location, if you notice the one is white with green trace instead of blue trace bc I botched the extraction and soldered and heat shrinked the next closest wire color I had in the donor harness)
You should be left with two pins, a ground lug and two connectors that go to the bed lighting jumper harnesses. The ground seemed to want to go on the right frame rail, but I soldered in more wire so that it would bolt in with the existing bundle of grounds on the rear of the left frame rail.
(custom harness just for bed lighting)
I separated the main connector on the truck, pulled the plastic filler plugs and inserted the to pins from the new harness I made into locations 28 and 31. I was able to extract and insert these pins with a micro flat blade screwdriver.
I ran the new harness along the existing harness and cable tied them together. Installed bed lighting jumper harnesses and bed light. Hooked up and activated in forscan, now I have factory bed lights with a donor harness that cost me 40 plus tax and ship.
I taped the harness too close to the end of the bare pins and had difficulty installing the pins in the connector, I had to cut back the tape a couple inches and pull the wires out of the split loom to ease inserting into connector. The wires do have room to go back into the loom once the connector shell is snapped back together.
I now plan on installing factory upfitter switches using my own harness made with connectors found from digikey and mouser.
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